When Alessandro Michele was growing up in Rome in the 1970s, one of his favorite pastimes was to rummage through his mother’s closet and to run his hands over the rustling taffeta, glinting sequins, and other adornments of time past.

Alessandro Michele’s first couture collection for Valentino reimagines the house’s legacy with rich historical references.

For Alessandro Michele, who on Wednesday joined the most rarefied ranks of his profession with his debut made-to-measure collection for Valentino, it was both dazzling and a little bit dizzying. Demi Moore Suits Up With Exaggerated Hips and Shoulders at Giorgio Armani Privé Haute Couture Show in Paris

Citing a fascination with lists, the Italian designer revealed the myriad inspirations in each of the 48 unique ensembles.

Red words scrolled along a black board, poetic descriptors heralding Alessandro Michele’s first haute couture collection for Valentino.

For his debut collection at the French house, the designer left 100-page documents as show notes on every seat at the runway show.

This afternoon in Paris (29 Janaury 2025), the Italian designer hit new heights with an eclectic, era-traversing couture collection for Valentino

The Italian designer revealed 48 dresses, all fundamentally inspired by an idea at the nexus of infinity by Umberto Eco. See every look.

Just a few days before Alessandro Michele’s inaugural Valentino couture show, the designer welcomed Vogue into his Paris atelier.