It's pink, pliable, and so uniformly unperturbed it seems as though it must have come from a single, endless sausage. In lunchboxes, it's folded into sandwiches with yellow mustard. In diners, bologna ...

There are few foods as simultaneously reviled and adored like the bologna sandwich. They're frugal and declaratively unfancy; slap it between white bread with your spread of choice, and lunch is ...